Ermenegildo“吉尔多”则尼亚,Ermenegildo则尼亚集团主席兼首席执行官,表示:“到2024年前九个月,我们的收入比去年同期增长了2%。尽管第三季度集团收入显示放缓,但我对则尼亚品牌持续积极表现感到放心,得益于直销渠道的提振,以及我们为Thom Browne和Tom Ford Fashion引进的人才的素质,我们正在努力加强这些团队。”
The Group’s management monitors and evaluates operating and financial performance using several non-IFRS financial measures including: revenues on a constant currency basis (constant currency) and revenues on an organic growth basis (organic or organic growth). The Group’s management believes that these non-IFRS financial measures provide useful and relevant information regarding the Group’s financial performance and financial condition, and improve the ability of management and investors to assess and compare the financial performance and financial position of the Group with those of other companies. They also provide comparable measures that facilitate management’s ability to identify operational trends, as well as make decisions regarding future spending, resource allocations and other strategic and operational decisions. While similar measures are widely used in the industry in which the Group operates, the financial measures that the Group uses may not be comparable to other similarly named measures used by other companies nor are they intended to be substitutes for measures of financial performance or financial position as prepared in accordance with IFRS.
Revenues on a constant currency basis (constant currency)
In addition to presenting our revenues on a current currency basis, we also present certain revenue information on a constant currency basis (constant currency), which excludes the effects of foreign currency translation from our subsidiaries with functional currencies different from the Euro.
We calculate constant currency revenues by applying the current period average foreign currency exchange rates to translate prior period revenues of foreign subsidiaries expressed in local functional currencies different than the Euro.
We use revenues on a constant currency basis to analyze how our underlying revenues have changed between periods independent of the effects of foreign currency translation.
Revenues on a constant currency basis are not a substitute for revenues on a current currency basis or any IFRS-related measures, however we believe that revenues excluding the impact of foreign currency translation provide additional useful information to management and to investors in analyzing and evaluating our revenues and operating performance.
Revenues on an organic growth basis (organic growth or organic)
In addition to presenting our revenues on a current currency basis, we also present certain revenue information on an organic growth basis (organic growth or organic). Organic growth is calculated as the change in revenues from period to period, excluding the effects of (a) foreign exchange, (b) acquisitions and disposals and (c) changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee.
In calculating organic growth, the following adjustments are made to revenues:
(a) Foreign exchange – Current period average foreign currency exchange rates are used to translate prior period revenues of foreign subsidiaries expressed in local functional currencies different than the Euro.
(b) Acquisitions and disposals – Revenues generated by businesses and operations acquired in the current year are excluded. Revenues generated by businesses and operations acquired in the prior year are excluded from the current year for the same period that corresponds to the pre-acquisition period in the prior year. Additionally, where a business or operation was a customer prior to an acquisition, the related pre-acquisition revenues are excluded from the current and prior periods. Revenues generated by businesses and operations disposed of in the current year or prior year are excluded from both periods as applicable.
(c) Changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee – Revenues generated from license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee that are new or terminated in the current year or prior year are excluded from both periods (except if the effects are already included in acquisitions and disposals). Additionally, revenues generated from license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee that experienced a structural change in the scope or perimeter in the current year or prior year are excluded from both periods, including changes to product categories, distribution channels or geographies of the underlying license agreements.
8
We believe the presentation of organic growth is useful to better understand and analyze the underlying change in the Group’s revenues from period to period on a consistent perimeter and constant currency basis.
Revenues on an organic growth basis are not a substitute for revenues on a current currency basis or any IFRS-related measures, however we believe that revenues excluding the effects of (a) foreign exchange, (b) acquisitions and disposals and (c) changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee provide additional useful information to management and to investors in analyzing and evaluating our revenues and operating performance.
The tables below show a reconciliation of reported revenue growth to constant currency, excluding the effects of foreign exchange, and to organic growth, which excludes also acquisitions and disposals and changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee, by segment, by brand and product line, by distribution channel and by geography for the nine months ended September 30, 2024 compared to the nine months ended September 30, 2023 (9M 2024 vs 9M 2023) and for the three months ended September 30, 2024 compared to the three months ended September 30, 2023 (Q3 2024 vs Q3 2023).
Segment
9M 2024 vs 9M 2023
Revenues Growth
less Foreign exchange
Constant Currency
less Acquisitions and disposals
less Changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee
Organic
Zegna
0.8
%
(1.8
%)
2.6
%
0.6
%
—
%
2.0
%
Thom Browne
(21.7
%)
(0.9
%)
(20.8
%)
6.1
%
—
%
(26.9
%)
Tom Ford Fashion
54.4
%
(1.2
%)
55.6
%
59.4
%
—
%
(3.8
%)
Total
1.7
%
(1.7
%)
3.4
%
7.9
%
(0.5
%)
(4.0
%)
Q3 2024 vs Q3 2023
Revenues Growth
less Foreign exchange
Constant Currency
less Acquisitions and disposals
less Changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee
Organic
Zegna
(2.9
%)
(1.8
%)
(1.1
%)
0.4
%
(0.2
%)
(1.3
%)
Thom Browne
(27.4
%)
(0.6
%)
(26.8
%)
—
%
—
%
(26.8
%)
Tom Ford Fashion
(12.2
%)
(1.1
%)
(11.1
%)
—
%
—
%
(11.1
%)
Total
(7.8
%)
(1.4
%)
(6.4
%)
0.3
%
—
%
(6.7
%)
9
Brand and product line
9M 2024 vs 9M 2023
Revenues Growth
less Foreign exchange
Constant Currency
less Acquisitions and disposals
less Changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee
Organic
ZEGNA brand
3.4
%
(2.1
%)
5.5
%
0.7
%
—
%
4.8
%
Thom Browne
(21.4
%)
(0.9
%)
(20.5
%)
6.2
%
—
%
(26.7
%)
TOM FORD FASHION
54.4
%
(1.2
%)
55.6
%
59.4
%
—
%
(3.8
%)
Textile
(6.5
%)
(1.0
%)
(5.5
%)
(0.1
%)
—
%
(5.4
%)
Other
(51.6
%)
(0.2
%)
(51.4
%)
(0.2
%)
(21.3
%)
(29.9
%)
Total
1.7
%
(1.7
%)
3.4
%
7.9
%
(0.5
%)
(4.0
%)
Q3 2024 vs Q3 2023
Revenues Growth
less Foreign exchange
Constant Currency
less Acquisitions and disposals
less Changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee
Organic
ZEGNA brand
0.9
%
(2.1
%)
3.0
%
0.5
%
—
%
2.5
%
Thom Browne
(27.1
%)
(0.6
%)
(26.5
%)
—
%
—
%
(26.5
%)
TOM FORD FASHION
(12.2
%)
(1.1
%)
(11.1
%)
—
%
—
%
(11.1
%)
Textile
(16.3
%)
(1.0
%)
(15.3
%)
—
%
—
%
(15.3
%)
Other
(23.7
%)
(0.1
%)
(23.6
%)
—
%
0.8
%
(24.4
%)
Total
(7.8
%)
(1.4
%)
(6.4
%)
0.3
%
—
%
(6.7
%)
10
Distribution channel
9M 2024 vs 9M 2023
Revenues Growth
less
Foreign exchange
Constant Currency
less
Acquisitions and disposals
less
Changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee
Organic
Direct to Consumer (DTC)
ZEGNA brand
4.4
%
(2.1
%)
6.5
%
1.7
%
—
%
4.8
%
Thom Browne
0.7
%
(2.8
%)
3.5
%
16.4
%
—
%
(12.9
%)
TOM FORD FASHION
75.1
%
(2.4
%)
77.5
%
75.5
%
—
%
2.0
%
Total Direct to Consumer (DTC)
10.2
%
(2.3
%)
12.5
%
10.5
%
—
%
2.0
%
Wholesale branded
ZEGNA brand
(1.7
%)
(1.9
%)
0.2
%
(4.5
%)
—
%
4.7
%
Thom Browne
(39.6
%)
—
%
(39.6
%)
(1.6
%)
—
%
(38.0
%)
TOM FORD FASHION
27.9
%
—
%
27.9
%
39.0
%
—
%
(11.1
%)
Total Wholesale branded
(13.7
%)
(0.6
%)
(13.1
%)
4.8
%
—
%
(17.9
%)
Textile
(6.5
%)
(1.0
%)
(5.5
%)
(0.1
%)
—
%
(5.4
%)
Other
(51.6
%)
(0.2
%)
(51.4
%)
(0.2
%)
(21.3
%)
(29.9
%)
Total
1.7
%
(1.7
%)
3.4
%
7.9
%
(0.5
%)
(4.0
%)
Q3 2024 vs Q3 2023
Revenues Growth
less
Foreign exchange
Constant Currency
less
Acquisitions and disposals
less
Changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee
Organic
Direct to Consumer (DTC)
ZEGNA brand
4.2
%
(1.6
%)
5.8
%
1.7
%
—
%
4.1
%
Thom Browne
(14.1
%)
(0.9
%)
(13.2
%)
—
%
—
%
(13.2
%)
TOM FORD FASHION
0.2
%
(2.3
%)
2.5
%
—
%
—
%
2.5
%
Total Direct to Consumer (DTC)
0.8
%
(1.6
%)
2.4
%
1.2
%
—
%
1.2
%
Wholesale branded
ZEGNA brand
(12.9
%)
(3.9
%)
(9.0
%)
(4.5
%)
—
%
(4.5
%)
Thom Browne
(46.0
%)
(0.1
%)
(45.9
%)
—
%
—
%
(45.9
%)
TOM FORD FASHION
(29.2
%)
0.4
%
(29.6
%)
—
%
—
%
(29.6
%)
Total Wholesale branded
(26.8
%)
(1.4
%)
(25.4
%)
(1.5
%)
—
%
(23.9
%)
Textile
(16.3
%)
(1.0
%)
(15.3
%)
—
%
—
%
(15.3
%)
Other
(23.7
%)
(0.1
%)
(23.6
%)
—
%
0.8
%
(24.4
%)
Total
(7.8
%)
(1.4
%)
(6.4
%)
0.3
%
—
%
(6.7
%)
11
Geographic area
9M 2024 vs 9M 2023
Revenues Growth
less
Foreign exchange
Constant Currency
less
Acquisitions and disposals
less
Changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee
Organic
EMEA (1)
2.2
%
(0.2
%)
2.4
%
4.6
%
(0.6
%)
(1.6
%)
Americas (2)
15.7
%
(1.3
%)
17.0
%
15.1
%
(1.0
%)
2.9
%
Greater China Region
(15.8
%)
(2.2
%)
(13.6
%)
1.0
%
—
%
(14.6
%)
Rest of APAC (3)
23.9
%
(6.2
%)
30.1
%
24.5
%
(0.6
%)
6.2
%
Other (4)
(24.7
%)
(0.1
%)
(24.6
%)
6.3
%
—
%
(30.9
%)
Total
1.7
%
(1.7
%)
3.4
%
7.9
%
(0.5
%)
(4.0
%)
______________________________________
(1)EMEA includes Europe, the Middle East and Africa.
(2)Americas includes the United States of America, Canada, Mexico, Brazil and other Central and South American countries.
(3)APAC includes Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, India and other Southeast Asian countries.
(4)Other revenues mainly include royalties.
Q3 2024 vs Q3 2023
Revenues Growth
less
Foreign exchange
Constant Currency
less
Acquisitions and disposals
less
Changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee
Organic
EMEA (1)
(2.1
%)
(0.5
%)
(1.6
%)
—
%
—
%
(1.6
%)
Americas (2)
(6.1
%)
(3.2
%)
(2.9
%)
—
%
—
%
(2.9
%)
Greater China Region
(22.8
%)
(0.5
%)
(22.3
%)
—
%
—
%
(22.3
%)
Rest of APAC (3)
6.1
%
(3.5
%)
9.6
%
2.2
%
—
%
7.4
%
Other (4)
(46.3
%)
(0.1
%)
(46.2
%)
—
%
—
%
(46.2
%)
Total
(7.8
%)
(1.4
%)
(6.4
%)
0.3
%
—
%
(6.7
%)
________________________________________
(1)EMEA includes Europe, the Middle East and Africa.
(2)Americas includes the United States of America, Canada, Mexico, Brazil and other Central and South American countries.
(3)APAC includes Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, India and other Southeast Asian countries.